50 inches Cardis .032 Dia Low Melt Rosin Core for Electronics And: .5ml bottle of the best flux available, works for electronics and Audio Components The picture is a stock photo and for illustration only. You will receive custom cut and packaged solder.The flux will arrive in a easy to dispense squeeze bottle. Ships out FAST (2 business day) from Upstate NY Product Details Solder from a Customer: What can I say, Cardas Quad Eutectic solder is by far the BEST out there. Hands down, I’ve tried them all. From cheap hobby store “silver solder” to the most expensive boutique brands. I restore/repair/upgrade/design Hi end Audio gear. Names like MCIntosh, Conrad Johnson, Cary, etc. equiptment that rivals cars in price sometimes. I need the best. Cardas is it. If you don’t understand the meaning/science behind Euctectic solder, look into it, the more you know. Great for beginners to start with, it’s very very easy to work with. Leaving perfect shiny solid solder work. I see a lot of “amateur soldering” and let me tell you. Most people who “can solder”, can’t. Make sure to use the correct iron, temp and procedure for your work. Also, a solid mechanical connection is always required. Wrap your wire/leads at least once. Use terminals or solder tags, and make sure nothing moves while the solder sets. I see so many cracked, failed, cold solder joints. Also with the Vintage gear becoming popular and everyone being a tech now and “re-capping”, I’m amazed some of these pieces of gear still work. People, just touching the two ends and soldering is not enough. J-hook or use a terminal to join. The joint should be sufficient even WITHOUT solder. The solder should only be needed to “lock” the mechanical joint once hardened. This stuff hardens equally across the metal combo, making for an incredibly safe, solid, secure joint. Nice and thin making waste less of an issue. Again, if you’re going to get into serious work in audio gear. Use Cardas quad eutectic and a good adjustable solder station. Hakko makes a great rig for $100 on Amazon. You can’t beat it At the price and will last a lifetime. Realize PCB and point to Point applications require a much different approach. (Temp) Also, those recapping x-overs, use a heat sink(2-4$) to protect those expensive new caps. Leads heat up quickly and most noobs aren’t quick with an iron. Less is more, both in time heating and solder used. Finally, remember that a shiny joint is needed. Re-due bad solders than and there. Don’t wait til they’re a problem. With what people spend on caps and wire, spring for good solder. Cardas is a real player in the metallurgy game for a long time, fortunately for us audio heads.Ruby Flux : RubyFluid Stainless Steel is a water-based, general purpose, inorganic-acid flux formulated for soldering stainless steel and other industrial metals. The flux contains Zinc Chloride and Hydrochloric Acid that make this flux active at room temperature where it begins to clean metals and remove oxides. The flux exerts a strong scavenging action to remove oxide coatings and other impurities from the metal surface to produce strong joints. Pre-cleaning is not necessary under most conditions. Superior RubyFluid Stainless Steel is excellent for use on Stainless Steel, Monel, High-Chrome Alloys, Inconel, Nickel, Copper, Brass, Ferrous Alloys and many more metals. It is not recommended for Aluminum and Magnesium.